20-SOMETHING IN LONDON

Saturday, December 5, 2020

I'm Dreaming of an Independent and Ethical Christmas


There is no ignoring the commercial significance of Christmas, even if it should be about more than just gifts. Spending is expected to equal that of previous years, despite furlough funds and recession riches. However, instead of taking place in person on the high street, much of the shopping will move online. This will have a significant environmental impact.

To meet everyday demand, there is expected to be a 36% increase in e-commerce delivery vehicles by the end of the decade. The convenience of online shopping takes a toll on our environment - emissions, pollution and congestion are all expected to be on the up to satisfy our increasing consumer needs. This doesn't even take into consideration the impact of packaging waste from our online buys, British retail uses 59 million pieces of plastic every year and much of this ends up in landfill. 


But there is hope. Many retailers are investing in biodegradable packaging options and there is an increased interest in "closing the loop" and recycling products. Some options to make your own online shopping more environmentally friendly from home include: supporting eco-friendly retailers, minimising returns, bulk buying products to reduce reordering, avoiding fast fashion and avoiding express delivery. Do what you can to offset your emissions for our environmental future.   

This year I have made moves to be more sustainably driven by purchasing cruelty free and ethically made products, staying away from fast fashion retailers and being non-impulsive in my buying habits. During lockdown, like many others, my consumer habits have also been focused on supporting small businesses rather than bolstering the billion dollar coffers of other sites. My Christmas shopping has so far been no different. 

Here is my tried and tested short list of small businesses and ethical enterprises that have made my nice list this year: 

Big Wild Thought 

If you're an animal lover, Big Wild Thought is the shop of dreams. A Yorkshire based clothing brand making a huge difference. 10% of every sale goes to relevant wildlife charities. 

                     

Their conservation Christmas jumper collection is available now for £45 or if ice-skate-wearing-tigers aren't your thing, unadorned animal t-shirts are £21.50. Santa saver hint: check out the Big Wild Thought Depop were you can find faulty and photoshop samples for a reduced price.    

Girlfriend Collective   

Recycling water bottles your thing? Girlfriend Collective has your workout style covered (UK stockist linked). 25 plastic bottles sitting on the wall are recycled for their leggings and 11 are used for their bras. Every pair of their 
LITE leggings are made from discarded fishing nets, which removes a whopping 1kg of waste from our oceans. Comfort and joy!   


Who wouldn't want luxurious and high quality activewear manufactured to reduce environmental damage. It's all on my wish list from Father Christmas!        

LittleUns Cakes & Bakes 

Santa isn't the only one who deserves cookies this Christmas. LittleUns cake boxes are always a good idea and their holiday boxes include all your festive favourites.




Small but mighty, LittleUns are baking spirits bright this Covid Christmas. Order your limited edition bespoke box now for £32, and make this small business smile. 
   
NotOnTheWestEnd 

A curated directory of small businesses run by individuals usually working in the theatre industry. Closed for now, these theatre professionals are turning their hand to more than just the next hit on the West End. NotOnTheWestEnd has all you could want for Christmas. 


Made by a lighting designer, a personal favourite of mine featured on the website is SquashedHouses. Handcrafted wooden LED lamps designed to look like iconic buildings or even your own home. Perfect lighting delivered this Christmas.  

Tomorrow's Scrunchie 
 
Handmade from pre-loved clothing and fabric offcuts, Tomorrow's Scrunchie fashions sustainable scrunchies perfect for the festive period. Founder Maisie Pearson set up the upcycling enterprise during lockdown after discovering a passion for sewing and sustainability whilst furloughed. Maisie entered lockdown as "a complete novice but found sewing to be [her] meditation and gave [her] life purpose again."  

The inspiration for the brand came from Lauren Bravo's How to Break Up with Fast Fashion, which Maisie credits for "opening [her] eyes to how damaging fast fashion is to the world and how urgently we need to slow down our consumption." Just like that, her sewing journey was born.      



Man bun or messy bun? Get ready to tame those locks this holiday season. At just £5 a scrunchie or £12 for 3, these sustainable accessories make a tempting stocking filler.   
  
Wild

'Tis the season to smell nice and although 2020 has been a rough year, there's no excuse to throw a pit-y party. Wild provides eco-friendly natural aluminium free deodorant. Clad in a stylish reusable case, simply replenish with compostable, plastic free refills when you've run out or want to switch up your scent. 


I've personally chosen a selection of refill options: Mint Fresh, Bergamot Rituals and Coconut Dreams. Choose yours today for a one-off purchase of £25, a flexible subscription option for £12 or the Full Monty package for £32. Put your arms up, and keep waste down.


When Black Friday sales have put items as low as 5p, conscious consumption is more important than ever. We have to also focus not only on the environmental impact, but also on the human casualties of achieving the lowest price point. Boycotting just Boohoo won't fix a problem that is just as rife elsewhere but not as discernible. If an item looks too cheap, there's probably a hidden cost.        

Yet it must be acknowledged that thinking critically and ethically about our shopping habits is a privilege. To be able to source items not solely based on price, but how they are manufactured and impact, is definitely not achievable for all. 

However, for those that it is, spending that extra bit on fashion, gifts and the like will definitely have benefits. Demand for ethical products will encourage mainstream retailers to continue to focus in the same direction and in turn drive down costs to make sustainable shopping more affordable for all. Targeting your support towards small businesses will also ensure that they have a better chance of surviving this pandemic.      

Small edits to your personal consumer habits can spark wider change. Start your ethical edit this Christmas and pay it forward for a more sustainable future. To make it the most wonderful time of the year in every way, let's ensure a more Conscious Christmas.     

Cover art credit to Izzy Mathias, @izzyisbusydoingart     
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Saturday, November 14, 2020

Womb Warrior: Exploring Endometriosis

Disclaimer: very raw and real content, sensitive and squeamish readers please be advised   

In the UK, 1 in 10 women suffer from endometriosis. It is a chronic condition where tissue similar to that found in the womb grows in other areas of the body. Like in the womb, these endometrial cells break down each month. As opposed to the womb, however, where blood is expelled through menstruation, this blood is trapped in the body. This leads to: inflammation, the building of scar tissue and often the main symptom, intense pain. Sufferers are aptly known as 'Endo Warriors'.   

The line "You don't look sick" is often hurled at victims. For those who have battled to even be diagnosed, such comments are insensitive, but commonplace. Just because we can't see a condition doesn't discredit the seriousness of it. Although endo awareness has spread over the last few years, it is still considered a bit of a taboo topic, I think because of its relation to periods. Steeped in a history of religious taboo, 'period' remains a dirty word to many, and the avoidance of the topic reeks of our misogynistic patriarchal norms. It is no wonder that our understanding of what constitutes an 'irregular' or 'abnormal' menstrual cycle is so lacking, when 'regular' periods are glossed over in Period education with minute mentions in Biology classes. We would not want to offend the boys with something that does not directly impact them - why should they bother learning about the struggle of others? With this mindset, period poverty will only continue to grow. 

Over the Coronavirus lockdown, period poverty in the UK rose significantly. Over a three month period, the charity Bloody Good Period were forced to increase their distribution of sanitary products from 5,000 to 23,000 to meet soaring needs. Some women who were unable to gain access to necessary products instead resorted to using items such as tea towels, newspaper, pillow cases and their children's nappies. This is unacceptable.  


The 5% Tampon Tax on sanitary products may be coming to an end later this year, after a 20 year battle, but the expense spent on period care is still extraordinary. Luckily for me, aside from the odd month of excruciating pain, I am lucky with the heaviness at which Aunt Flo visits me, "I've [not] got a heavy flow" (or "a wide-set vagina"- I had to!) and don't need to rely on endless amounts of products. But for endo victims, they often have to invest considerable funds on their period care per month. In a lifetime, the average woman spends £5000 on sanitary products alone. For an endo sufferer, I imagine this figure is far higher. This figure also does not factor in the pain and symptom relief products that someone with endo or severe period pain might also purchase: prescription pills, CBD oil, hot water bottles, heat pads to name a few. Imagine being born into a household that can't afford 'luxuries' like Tampax AND develop endo. The ultimate menstrual short straw.  

Due to the progressive and recurring nature of the disease, a typical working life is also not always conducive to battling a chronic condition (although MANY do successfully.) The amount of sick days, and therefore use of sick pay by employers adds up for some. The lack of payment for 'excessive' sick days or if the sickness lasts less than three days (which affects SSP), can have a further financial impact on endo sufferers.

For some, endo can also lead to fertility problems. The condition can cause blockages in the fallopian tubes and can create a hostile environment for eggs and sperm to survive. As women, endless societal pressure is heaped upon us. As a gentle reminder, there is never an appropriate time to ask someone "When are you going to have a baby?", however well-meaning your intentions. You do not know what someone might be going through: perhaps grieving a past miscarriage, dealing with fertility problems, health issues or simply a desire not to have children. Our wombs are not public property. We are not Handmaids. An explanation for their expectation is not mandatory.      

Endometriosis is an invisible illness with no tangible, outward sign and is thus for some, incredibly isolating. Keen to develop my understanding of the wider impact of endometriosis, I asked my friend and blogger Beth Motley some questions about the condition. Beth utilises her social media presence to spread awareness of the illness after being diagnosed at just 18. A true warrior.    


What were your symptoms? How were you diagnosed?   

My symptoms were the usual for endo sufferers: terrible period pain, bloating, sickness, crippling back and stomach ache. My thighs hurt, my vagina would ache, I had terrible headaches and suffered from really heavy periods, which caused dizziness and made me lightheaded too. I attributed all this to just 'being a woman'.

When I asked my friends or my mum, they all said it was normal to suffer from pain and brushed off my symptoms. In their defence, they didn’t really know any difference. We were never told or taught about endometriosis. I remember frequently bleeding through my school skirt which was incredibly embarrassing for me. I started keeping spare underwear in my bag and practically carried a pharmacy of pain killers with me at all times.

I was diagnosed in my final year of school. I was 18 and taking my A-Levels. I spent a large amount of time in and out of hospital, so much so, that my school suggested I retake my final year because they thought that I wouldn’t be able to pass any of my classes. I spent a month in a wheelchair, and had a total of six incisions from two surgeries, eight months apart.

But rewinding to the beginning of those eight painful months, I had contracted a sick bug from a friend. Iwasn't unusual for me to be ill, I probably spent more time with my school nurse than I did with my own mum! For my friend, this sick bug was a 24 hour thing, a quick puke and stomach ache, and it was over. However days of feeling low, turned into weeks. After numerous GP visits, coupled with several hospital trips- only to be discharged on pain killers and "rest” - I was taken in to have emergency surgery for an appendicitis. 

Once I came around (and let me tell you being allergic to general anaesthetic and having to be resuscitated on the surgery table really does take it out of you!), I was told that I had a lot of adhesions and blood in my pelvic area, along with puss from a burst cyst. I asked what could have caused it, but my surgeon didn’t know.

So, began my road to recovery, or so I thought. A couple of months passed by, and I still wasn’t feeling myself. I was low, sore and unhappy. I went back to my surgeon who referred me to an IBS specialist, who then referred me to a gynaecologist. Because of all the time it took to get referred and then get an appointment, I ended up going private in order to just see someone who understood what I was going through.

In those few months, I was at my worst mentally and physically, I have never been so depressed or unhappy in my life.

I finally saw a gynaecologist who performed my second laparoscopy (where they make 3-4 incisions: one on your hip, one on your bikini line and then one in your belly button where they insert a camera to see what is going on.) It is not a super invasive surgery, but it hurts and it is very uncomfortable because they puff CO2 into your stomach, so you are swollen for at least a week afterwards. 

They found endometriosis in my uterus and pelvis, and used laser to burn it out. I felt so relieved because it proved I wasn't crazy (the amount of people who told me that my pain was just in my head was insane). Then I was scared, because I had never heard of this condition before. I cried a lot, I felt so isolated and some girls at school made fun of the fact that I had a disease for the rest of my life. I had never felt so alone.

The trial of management then began. I was told that I had 3 options:

  1. Have kids ASAP in case my fertility was affected (I was 18 at the time, single and still at school...)
  2. Use or take a contraceptive to manage pain and symptoms (this is not a cure and does not always work for everyone)
  3. Have a hysterectomy

As yet, endometriosis does not have a proven cure, so these treatments purely manage the symptoms. I took the second option.    

I finally found a contraceptive that worked for me (after a long trial and a 6 week period!) and I’ve been on it ever since. I had another laparoscopy in December 2019 and I was pleased to hear that my endo has not grown back...so far!

What effect does endo have on your everyday (and future) life?

Endo has definitely made me rethink my life. I had a lot of goals and visions for my future and I had to change the course of my life, which was not only upsetting, but also really opened my eyes to how serious this disease is. It is not just a one off, you have to function with it for life. 

When I used to have a monthly period, I would have to take days off every month and it would really take everything out of me. I found that sport became more effort, chronic fatigue meant that I slept a lot and I would spend a lot of my time exhausted, not having energy for simple tasks like cooking or shopping.

I am currently a freelancer so I can take leave without the risk of losing my job for having too many sick days. Even though I may not have endometriosis right now, my body still suffers from multiple problems that make it hard for me to fully function.

A common symptom of endometriosis is also pain during sex, which can put a strain on relationships too. If you experience this, don't sit in silence, go and see your GP or gyno.  

What is the worst aspect of living with endo?  

The worst aspect of living with endo is definitely the way it can just cripple you at any moment. I am scared that my friends won’t want to be friends anymore when I end up cancelling plans last minute, or complain about feeling ill.


You use Instagram as a platform to spread awareness. What response have you had and which endo accounts would you recommend following? 

Spreading awareness on Instagram has actually given me a voice. I spent 3 years in denial about my disease. Partly because I didn't know anyone else who suffered with it so I felt like I couldn’t talk about it, and partly because I didn’t want to acknowledge that my life and my future looked different to what I had envisioned before my diagnosis.

I have actually received amazing support from both friends and strangers on the Internet. I posted a very raw photo of my before and after endo tum and the feedback was crazy, lots of accounts popped up in my comments saying that my image was so real and honest. It felt empowering spreading awareness and creating a community where it is okay not to be okay.

There are so many accounts on Instagram about endo, but a few of my favourites for good information and tips are:

What tips do you have for others living with Endo? 

I think it is hard to advise others how they should live their lives. The effects and severity of the disease differ from person to person, so I don't want to push a certain lifestyle on anyone. There is no 'one size fits all' approach. 

If you are suffering from any of the symptoms I have mentioned, definitely speak to your GP or gynaecologist because you shouldn’t be suffering in silence. It can be a tough road ahead, but peace of mind and being in the know will definitely make it easier. Plus, there is a whole online community to support you if you want it, so please do not reduce your symptoms to just a “bad period”. Trust your instincts. 

How equipped have you found the NHS with dealing with chronic conditions? 

The NHS is amazing for some aspects of my life, but for an under-researched and underfunded disease like endo, it is not there. I know a lot of people who have been forced to go private and self-fund their own consultation and surgery because the NHS has simply taken too long or sent them to the wrong specialist.

What are three things that endo has taught you? 

Endo has taught me a lot of things and I am sure I will continue to learn even more. My top three takeaways are:

  1. Patience and sympathy. Not that I was the Grinch before, but I used to be less forgiving when someone said they felt ill, had a belly ache or flaked out on plans because they weren’t feeling well. I have become a more understanding person through my own experiences, and that has been a very important lesson for me.
  2. Trust my gut. When every doctor was saying that crippling stomach ache was 'normal' or having such a heavy period that I had to change my tampon more than once at night is 'natural', that is when I really had to trust myself and listen to my body. It told me something was wrong and I had to fight to get the answers I needed. 
  3. Don't self-pity. Yes, it sucks but you can't wallow in it. I need to look at my life from a different perspective and take advantage of different opportunities, I can't let life pass me by. You never know, sometimes it could be a blessing in disguise!

There has been no improvement in endometriosis diagnosis times in over a decade, according to a new report published by the APPG in October. On average it takes 8 years for women to be diagnosed. A shocking statistic. It was found that 58% of women visited their GP more than 10 times, 43% visited doctors in hospital over 5 times and 53% visited A&E before diagnosis. The report calls for the government to commit to halving these diagnosis times by 2025 and ensuring a baseline of diagnosis, treatment and management across the UK, alongside other requirements. 

It is clear, more than ever, that the government needs to wake up to the debilitating impact of endometriosis on all aspects of sufferers lives. This is especially true following the suspensions of necessary healthcare services during the worst of the Covid pandemic. Action is required now to ensure that future generations are provided with better treatment for chronic conditions. "People with endometriosis deserve better. Period." 

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Saturday, November 7, 2020

Let's talk about Bridget Jones...

A guest post by Keira MacAlister 

The first time I was called ‘fat’ I was 9 years old. Up until that point, I don’t think I had even realised I was potentially ‘bigger’ than other children in my class, and as an adult, I can objectively say I was not fat, I was chubby and there is definitely a difference. I felt a shift that day, I had become defined by something outside of how I viewed myself. I had genuinely never considered my appearance until then; I was far too busy doing normal 9-year-old stuff like playing with Bratz dolls and dancing to Girls Aloud. From that day my weight would be an all consuming issue throughout my life until the ripe old age of 23. That's now.  

When I think back to certain moments in my life, and the value I placed on the size of my body, it makes me feel two things. One, sadness for my past self as she was so overwhelmed by her desire to dissolve, she stopped living and two, angry. Angry about what the world has told me about myself, explicitly or implicitly since forever. 

Now, before I carry on, I want to make sure I acknowledge my privileges in this space. I am a white woman and therefore, whilst I am fat, I know that I carry a certain level of privilege just because of the colour of my skin. The people who taught me to love my fat body were Black women, beautiful incredible fat Black women who helped create a movement for marginalised bodies- in particular fat Black bodies. So, let me first point you in the direction of some incredible Black women who are far more qualified than I am to talk sense: Stephanie Yeboah, Aja Barber and Lauren Leavell (all three of these women have helped me immensely!) There are far more incredible Black body positive women out there and I’m also still learning, so have a google, diversify your feeds, and check out the origins of this movement (hint: fat Black women helped start this whole thing).


Okay, here we go. Since I was a teenager, I’ve been hyper-aware of my body and the limitations it has caused me. This probably sounds strange but let me explain. I always wanted to be an actor, as a child I never wanted to do anything else- my mum actually says I was born dramatic and she’s probably right. I noticed in school and beyond that I was overlooked for roles and pushed into the background until… well, I got thin. Suddenly I was catapulted to the front, cast as the lead in the musicals and given solos in showcases. Everything I had longed for for so long was suddenly mine. Except, nothing had changed really. My voice was the same, my acting ability was the same, but suddenly I looked like a lead. I looked like someone who could be desired. 

Whenever we see fat actors on stage or screen, we aren’t told to view them as lead character material or as sexually desirable. Look at Rebel Wilson for example, in Pitch Perfect her character is literally called ‘Fat Amy’. We’re sold this name as if it’s a mark of power for her character, taking away the word ‘fat’ from her potential bullies. However, doesn’t using this marker only reinforce the links between fat and bad? What if Amy had just been a beautiful woman who also happened to be fat? Her character is portrayed as overly sexual and we’re invited to laugh at her because fat people can’t be sexy can they…? Not in Hollywood they can’t.


Now if that’s not bad enough, what about all those characters we were told were fat when really, they most definitely weren’t. Top of this list for me has to be Bridget Jones. Why were we sold this idea that a successful woman, who weighed 9st nothing and had her own central London flat was a hot mess? Follow that fib with Martine McCutcheon’s Natalie in 
Love Actually, and the constant fat girl gags, and we’ve got ourselves a one-way ticket to slim tummy tea and appetite suppressant pops. I can laugh about how ridiculous this stuff is, but the scariest part is that it’s actually so damaging. When I first saw Bridget Jones, I believed the fat narrative they told me. I weighed about the same as her at the time and I was mortified. All these stories do is teach women to hate their bodies and tells us that beauty is a size 8 or below, pretty worrying stuff when the average UK woman is a size 16. 

We need to start seeing fat people on stage and screen in stories that aren’t about them being fat, or them being fat isn’t a comedic device. Being fat doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be the lead character. Fat people are people, they have complex and interesting lives that shouldn’t be forced into these narrow stereotypes that, from experience, just aren’t true. We need to stop casting non-fat people to play fat characters. If a character’s whole storyline revolves around their sudden realisation that they were never really fat and ugly, but thin and beautiful, what message is that sending? Hollywood and co have been successfully selling us the idea that fat is bad for decades, and honestly, it’s boring. It shouldn’t be political to be fat and live life unapologetically. The irony of getting a bigger person to feel invisible isn’t lost on me and I refuse to conform to it. So, take up space, be happy, don’t put your life on hold till you’re ‘skinny’, and be the beautiful complex creature you are. Hollywood doesn’t know a thing.  

Keira is studying her master's degree in Participation in the Cultural Sector and is passionate about all things body positivity. She is the only person I trust to takeover this blog... (currently!) 
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Saturday, October 24, 2020

Witch, Please: Potions and Politics

"You are a witch by being female, untamed, angry, joyous" 

It was February 2017. Lana Del Rey, via the medium of Twitter, sent out a call to her witchy following to hex Donald Trump. The ingredients were simple. A bowl of water, a bowl of salt, a tarot card, a stub of an orange candle and aunflattering photo of Trump (which was no doubt the easiest ingredient on the list to source). On mass, the spell was cast on a waning crescent moon. But it seems that the witches got their dates slightly confused. When the news broke of POTUS' contraction of Covid-19 on the 2nd of this month, many looked to the occult. 

In 2020, Witches are nothing new to us. They are a bewitching archetype of fantastical entertainment and continue to thrive in popular culture. Witches have turned children into mice, been flattened by houses, hailed Satan, cooked children in their ovens, battled family curses and put lyrical spells on a town's adults. As a child of the 90s, I grew up alongside the magical televised women in Sabrina, The Teenage WitchCharmed and The Worst Witch. Their looks might differ: from bald as a boiled egg, green, hag-like to extreme youthfulness and sex appeal, but their dependence on magic remains.  

We all know of the infamous persecution of 'Witches' in America, The Salem Witch Trials. 200 women were accused of Witchcraft and 20 were executed, despite the fact that the colonial officials did not actually believe in the practice... They became some of the first magical martyrs. Five of these women were exonerated on Halloween in 2001: Bridget Bishop, Susannah Martin, Alice Parker, Wilmot Redd and Margaret Scott. 300 years too late. Fuelled by militant religion, Witch-hunts were also widespread across Early Modern Europe. Some historians believe there may have been up to 60,000 executions and interestingly, not all of these were women, as one might expect. 

Today, however, you'll find the term is more often used in a political and public forum. Anti-Communist rhetoric fuelled the word's use in the sixties with Stalinist Witch-hunts or McCarthyite Witch-hunts becoming rife. Since Trump's inauguration, he has tweeted the word over 400 times. Ironic for the most powerful man in the land. The closest he has come to a stake is on his plate.


Unlike in the 17th century, where the title 'Witch' was used as a derogatory, many have sought in recent times, to reclaim the word. 
Dressed as Witches and murmuring hexes, Women's International Terrorist Conspiracy from Hell, simply known as W.I.T.C.H, stormed Wall Street on Halloween in 1968. The next day the Dow reportedly went down 13 points. Their manifesto exulted "If you are a woman and dare to look within yourself, you are a Witch. You make your own rules. You are free and beautiful... You are a Witch by being female, untamed, angry, joyous, and immortal." Their matriarchal 'coven' acted as a definitive aggressor against patriarchal oppression. The Witch was their emblem for power rather than Witchcraft, a tool to achieve liberation and a cloak for their sisterhood. 

Similarly, those identifying as Witches today remain anti-establishment. The Witch has become synonymous with activism and empowerment in recent years. Before the 2017 Women's March, Andi Ziesler heralded that "We need to go full witch." Recently, Witches have stood in solidarity with the Black Lives Matter movement. With their own history of oppression, (although acknowledged on a completely different scale), many feel that it is necessary to contribute to the discourse. Protesting against systemic racism, Witches stand proud with the community both in person, at demonstrations, and also on the social media site, Tiktok. Occupying an increasingly popular alternative side of the platform, with the aid of celebrity endorsement, known as WitchTok. Their most recognisable tag #WitchesForBLM emphasis is largely upon protection, with many Witches reciting spells of support for the cause. However, there are also some darker TikToks where hexes are recited towards the police. Yet, the intent behind all of these remain the same: any form of persecution is intolerable. 


As with most movements, there is a divide between more practiced Witches and those new to the craft, known in the community as 'baby Witches'. This divide was only strengthened recently, when a group of trending baby Witches came under fire for hexing first the fae and then the moon. The mythical fae are cunning and mischievous magical beings regaled in folklore across endless cultures. The moon is said to enhance a Witch's magic and acts as a basis for many incantations. Apparently, both do not conform to human rules, so neither were at serious risk of the babies' spells, but regardless the hexes were a definite no no.   

For some, calling a woman the title 'Witch' remains a misogynistic insult and is utilised especially in the political sphere. Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez (AOC) was accused by Conservative Christians of leading “a coven of witches that cast spells on President Trump 24 hours a day, seven days a week." The woman has no rest! In the run up to the 2016 election, Hillary Clinton was dubbed as the 'Wicked Witch of the Left' and Twitter was flooded with edited images of her riding a broom. Across the pond, in 2017, the same tactic was used at Westminster, with MPs sending out Christmas cards depicting Theresa May as the Wicked Witch, but this time, of Westminster. The connection between strong women and Witchcraft is not a new political tactic. Queen Elizabeth I, Anne Boleyn, Joan of Arc and Cleopatra were all slandered with the title. It seems that powerful, intelligent women have always been threats and the only feasible way they have achieved their position is through sorcery not legitimate practice.  


In Hollywood, the Me-Too movement has brought to the forefront female equality, with a campaign waged against sexual harassment and the silencing of women. In some places of the world, however, the victimisation of women and real Witch-hunts are ongoing. In India, when landowning women are accused of Witchcraft, their lands are stolen. Only in July of this year, having been denounced a Witch, 90 year old Akua Denteh was beaten to death in Ghana's East Gonja District. This is not an isolated occurrence. 
 
2020 was predicted as the year of the Witch. A year which heralded the beginning of 'The Great Transformation', an astrological cycle where Jupiter, Saturn and Pluto came into conjunction and one which Hecate, the goddess of magic and Witchcraft, well and truly rules at a crossroads. In the age of Me-Too, female empowerment is at an all time high. Whether one believes in magic or not, as a feminist, any defence against injustice or discrimination is commendable. Witch please, sign me up. 
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Saturday, October 10, 2020

Pyramids Are Best Left in Ancient Egypt: Arbonne Exposé


Ancient Egypt isn't the only place pyramids exist. They also operate on the Interwebs.  
Where representatives once went door-to-door, preying on friendship groups and hosting parties to rope in members, the practice has taken over online. Instagram is the new vehicle for retail selling, with the ability to slide into anyone's DMs and offer them a once in a lifetime opportunity. Posts are littered with comments of you being 'the perfect fit' to market fashion brands, diet supplements, beauty products: the list is endless. 

Multi-Level Marketing (MLMs) otherwise known as Network Marketing companies, utilise direct sales of products to customers and they are thought of, by many, as equal to pyramid schemes. Although unlike pyramid schemes, they actually sell real products. They encourage existing distributors to recruit new members who are then paid a percentage of their recruits' sales. The main company aim is to increase the sales force in order to boost revenue. Commission is based on the total volume of sales garnered and is paid across the various levels. But instead of a trickle down effect, it is rather a trickle UP outcome, whereby the people at the top make the most money, often at the expense of those in their teams at the bottom. Recruits are therefore inspired to achieve more sales in order to work up the levels and gain more commission, often through recruiting people themselves. The focus is not solely on the products as it is in other business practices.    

It is this reliance on recruiting rather than direct retail selling that make MLMs controversial. In 2003, Bill Ackman launched a class action suit against Herbalife, a global MLM corporation that develops and sells dietary supplements. The main claim that Ackman made was that Herbalife is a "predatory pyramid scheme designed to fail." He argued that “Herbalife inflates the suggested retail price (SRP) of its products and overstates ‘Retail Sales’ in its public filings to conceal the fact that Recruitment Rewards earned by distributors are substantially greater than the Retail Profit they generate.” In 2017, after a settlement with the FDC, it was ruled that Herbalife would pay $200 million and fundamentally restructure its business "so that participants are rewarded for what they sell, not how many people they recruit,” the FTC Chairwoman Ramirez promised. How much this has happened is disputed. 
   

One major condemnation of MLMs by the anti-MLM community, and rightly so, is the fact that MLM consultants often target vulnerable people and those of lower educated or lower economic backgrounds. This is largely because the dream of making it big can seem unattainable for people without access to higher education, which typically affords a higher salary and therefore, the money to fund their dream lifestyle. The consultants pitch is therefore easier placed within these sectors. They are bound to have more interest and take up.    

However, a friend of mine, who joined the MLM Arbonne in October 2019 was a recent University graduate just looking to supplement her income. She made it to the first level of District Manager and then drastically quit the company recently. The reason I knew that she had left the company was because I noticed that her Arbonne website had been deleted from her Instagram profile and I asked another friend who confirmed she had split ways with the brand. Quite the Sherlock Holmes, I know! As a concerned and frankly nosy friend, I reached out and asked if she might tell me a bit about her experience inside one of the top MLMs.  

How did you get involved with Arbonne? 

It all started on Instagram, as these things normally do, and I saw this girl who was a friend of someone I followed. I just loved her feed. She was kind of this person who was #goals as it were: body goals, photo goals... just goals. A very attractive, aesthetically pleasing person with generally good vibes, so I followed her and I liked some of her photos, and then she actually liked and commented on some of mine. We just got talking. I thought she was really cool and we hit it off. We met up for dinner and she talked about the business a little bit, but it wasn't until maybe a month and a half later that I actually bit the bullet and joined because of 30 Days to Healthy Living, the company's main programme that promises long lasting weight loss.  

What attracted you to the brand? 
 
Basically, I have always had a problem with my body, and the 30 Days to Healthy Living programme was showing amazing results for people. A lot of the before and after photos were legit, and I even saw in person the effects that the programmes had. It was about losing weight sustainably and the focus was on gut health. The products were also vegan, non-GMO, and all this good stuff, so I just thought "wow, this is amazing." I had always wanted to make the switch to veganism and more sustainable products. The possibility of earning money on the side by promoting these was just the cherry on top (of the worst cake ever, but y’know, we live and learn).  

How did you create a client base? 

They make it very clear that it is network marketing, so I would message a bunch of people that I already knew that I followed on Instagram and, later, people who would interact with my posts, whether that was on my profile or on my Instagram stories. I would just send these really cringe voice messages or just long, long messages, basically being like "Hey, I have a great opportunity, I think you would be great." 


What impact did joining Arbonne have on your life? 

In short, a pretty shitty one. 

I joined Arbonne at the height of my desperation, after I graduated uni. I had been looking for a job and I didn't find one quick enough. I needed something to fill my time.  

In terms of my personal relationships, it did cause some arguments, some tension with people. I remember I had an argument with a really good friend of mine. We're luckily still friends, but I tried to get her to buy the 30 Days programme, which has a retail value of about £500 pounds, but I was like "Hey, listen you can get it for £170, which is basically a bargain." I mean, in terms of the difference in price, it's a bargain, but £170 is not considered cheap for most people, and so understandably, at the time, she didn't want to buy it. I took that for her not wanting to support me. So it was those kinds of little rifts that were caused by Arbonne. 

I'm also fairly confident that my social media following went down, or that at least some people stopped following my stories. I didn't really keep track of that part to be honest. 

But as for my mental health, ummm... well, we would have these training calls, and they would insinuate to the people that weren't doing as well that we just simply weren't putting the work in. When in fact, how well you do at convincing people to buy the product isn't really up to you. It's up to the people who are receiving the messages and how they respond to them. So we were being blamed for things that were completely out of our control, and that was absolutely AWFUL for my mental health. I was like "Oh, I need to try harder. This is why I'm not succeeding", when actually the system is built for people to fail, especially for those on the bottom, and for people on the top to thrive.

What did you think of the products? 

Frankly, the reason why I stayed so long, apart from the friends I made, was the products. On the business side of things, I was having a terrible time, but I absolutely loved the products. 
I loved the protein powder, I loved the fizz sticks, I loved the skincare. They were of a really high quality and standard. If you know anything about Arbonne, you'll know that they are owned by the Groupe Rocher, which is a French company who also manufacture brands like Yves Rocher and Petit Bateau. The products obviously won't work for everybody, such is the nature of skincare and health products, but I honestly thought that they were incredible.  


How did you make money? 

With all of these MLMs, or legal pyramid schemes, how making money works isn't  actually through recruiting people, which is a very common misconception and one that I want to put to bed right now. You make money if people buy directly through your store. This increases the amount of points you get in the point system and the higher the levels you reach, the more rewards you get. 

However, recruiting people will help you more easily reach a higher marker because everyone below you who makes sales contributes to the points that you receive. So it's in your best interest to have a larger team. (I had a team of around 5 below me.) But, just the ACT of recruiting people doesn't actually get you those points: your recruits have to actually MAKE sales. 

The bigger your team is, the more likely it was for you to have a steady stream of income. I have to say that the people at the third or fourth level of Arbonne, if they have a big team, become absolutely loaded. It's not even a joke. You also receive enough money to rent a Mercedes-Benz when you reach level three, but the car HAS to be white AND have the Arbonne branding on it: free advertising... we love to see it.

In terms of how much money I made, particularly in conjunction with how much I spent, I didn’t even break even. Not even close. I earned about £25 per month once I was promoted to District Manager, but I spent MUCH more on the products themselves. The disparity between the two figures is depressing, so I won’t disclose it, but by God, to anyone who has read this far who is STILL thinking of joining an MLM... girl, why?

Do you think Arbonne delivers on their core values: Empowerment, Transparency and Sustainability? 

Yes and no. 

Empowerment- I really don't believe they are particularly empowering. Companies like Arbonne prey on people in vulnerable situations, particularly jobless or low-income women and single mothers. Once they join the team, they try and call it empowering when really its like "Hey, try and make money by recruiting people". That's not empowerment. Also, as a feminist, I find this whole 'Boss Babe' narrative so harmful. It's so patronising to women: why do they need to be called a 'Boss Babe' to be successful? It's just a bit of a joke.  

Transparency- yes, on the ingredients front and how the business worked. But in terms of NDAs, they weren't transparent about that at all. That was very much in the small print. 

Sustainability- yes, absolutely. They have a deal with TerraCycle whereby you send back empty pots/containers and those get recycled and they use really lovely ingredients. 

Some people in the anti-MLM community relate conditional friendships within their company. Did you experience this at Arbonne?  

Okay here's the thing: I am still friends with some people in Arbonne, but I have noticed that since leaving, they talk to me a lot less. So while we can be friendly with each other and we can hang out occasionally, I have noticed that they engage with me much less. Is that a conditional friendship? I would say so, in a couple of respects. I don't think it's conscious on their part, and that kind of makes it worse to be honest. It shows that they are able to shut people who are not in Arbonne out of their lives without even realising it. But I would never actually tell the people involved that. 

As an Instagram follower of yours, I noticed a few of your stories when you worked for the company. You made comments and had to defend Arbonne when people asked about it being a pyramid scheme. Is there any form of NDA when you work for them? 

The stories I made defending Arbonne as a pyramid scheme, that kind of was just me getting defensive about it. 

I actually didn't notice the NDA until things were pointed out to me in anti-MLM videos. You're not technically allowed to slander Arbonne until at least a year after you quit, because they can come after you legally, which is why you're probably going to have to omit my name when you put this article up.

Whilst working for Arbonne, presumably you heard about horror stories from the anti-MLM community. How and why did you dismiss these stories? 

I was looking at the success of the other people and the #goals person who recruited me. I thought if these people have managed to do this, then I can too, and so it doesn't really matter what people say. I really believed I could make it happen for myself. I also thought very toxically at the time, I'll admit, that the people who failed obviously didn't try hard enough. They were losers and I wasn't going to be loser. 

When in fact, if you don't succeed, that does NOT mean that you're a loser. If you fail at an MLM, it's because they are designed for most people to fail. I think the statistic is about 80% or even 90% of people not even making a profit after joining. 


But I dismissed these stories because as I say, I really thought I could make it happen for myself, but I quickly found out my success had very little to do with me and had everything to do with people agreeing to do this thing with me. I discovered that pretty often, I couldn't change people's minds.   

Throughout my Arbonne "career" as it were, I was always watching anti-MLM videos. First, I watched them to make fun of them. But I think subconsciously, I always believed that what I was doing was sus and I was trying to convince myself otherwise. 

But, in the end, something triggered me to leave and then finally, all the information in the anti-MLM videos just started to make complete sense. It just clicked in my brain and then, I wasn't making fun of them anymore. I couldn't continue taking myself seriously because I believed everything that the people in these videos were saying.   


Why did you decide to leave? 

There was a huge launch of some new products some months ago, including a new protein powder. It was mint chocolate chip flavour, but it was very limited edition and so, in order to get it, you had to buy two sets of these brand new products. Together these cost £500, and even if you didn't want everything in the set, that was the only way you could get the new protein powder. 

Obviously, I looked at that and I was like "no, thats f*****, I shouldn't have to spend £500 on things that are part of a set that I don't even want just to get this protein powder." How ridiculous is that? So that just didn't sit well with me at all. I then dared to point this out in the Arbonne group chat and the leader was like "Oh well, you obviously don't take your business seriously enough" and I was like "Excuse me, I beg your pardon, but most people don't have £500 to spend full stop, let alone on things that they don't need." That experience for me was instrumental in my leaving Arbonne and taking in the truths that people were telling me. The red flags finally begin to wave.     

Have you had any backlash for leaving? 

Not really, not overtly. 

I'm sure that people have spoken about me in private. Especially since I gave a girl who really isn't doing well in the company a hard time about still being in Arbonne, in the interest of helping her of course, but we got into quite a heated argument about it. She didn't want to admit that she has lost more money than she has made and that she should quit while she is still ahead.


What would you tell other people thinking about joining an MLM? 

Don't. 

Do not. Unless you want to be gaslighted. Unless you want to lose money.

You're taking a huge gamble on something that may or may not work. Just get a normal job like most people. You may believe that it really will work for you, and you know, the people who have made it work for them, kudos to them. But the average person will not succeed in an MLM, so just don't try it. You will lose money at one point or another. You will be made to feel like you're not working hard enough, so just don't and save yourself the grief.  


The purpose of this article is not to make fun of those who are or have been involved with MLMs. In my research, I have found that some advocates of the anti-MLM community who have not been directly involved with an MLM themselves, condemn the stupidity of someone joining. However, it is my belief that those involved are victims of a booby-trapped system and are indoctrinated by the companies' sale of the potential lifestyle they might achieve, if only they can work hard enough. 

My friend's account is by no means the worst I have heard, and is but a drop in the ocean of the MLM malcontent. The naysayers may argue that her fault was not sticking at it: many work at it for years and still failBut you don’t have to have failed at an MLM to take issue with them. You could have reached the top level like Not The Good Girl and still have a lot of tea to spill on the problematic world of MLMs.

With the full impact of lockdown and the lessening of the job retention scheme, the already saturated MLM industry will continue to gain even more new recruits as more people face redundancy. Avon has already reported a 114% rise in recruits during lockdown (according to TIME). In the past, recessions have also proven great fodder for MLM success with members signing up in their millions. The 2020 recession is bound to follow the same surge. It is mine and my anonymous friend's hope that this article will serve as a warning about joining similar companies. You could stand to lose a lot more than just money.       
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